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Coy – a nude study

Coy an artistic nude study

Coy

Finally after having it on my todo list for close to 8 years I did a nude shoot with a profesional model. I absolutely love artistic nudes but I found it to be somewhat intimidating to get into my self without having any experience what so ever. Ideally i thought it would be best to learn from an experienced photographer in the field by means of assisting on s couple of shoots. However that opportunity  never arose so at one point I decided to just go for it. I hired an experienced model (which was also a first) and planned a shoot.

Although I was very nervous on the day of the shoot I couldn’t wait to get started. The day before the shoot I decided to go online and collect works in the style and atmosfeer I like. This preparation payed of, on such first shoot you’re going to be nervous and being able to just show a set of 12 images to a model which visually explain the direction you want to go into is a lot easier then having to explain it verbally. I wasn’t planning on copying work (although i think there’s nothing wrong with that for learning purposes) it was merely to set the mood.

As the model got undressed I did a final check on the lighting equipment and made sure everything was in working order and roughly setup for the type of light I wanted. After that I switched the heating up a bit so my model wouldn’t be cold and feel uncomfortable. When she came we started up with a couple of simple standing shots. The first lesson I learned was that shooting a nude model really isn’t that much different from shooting a dressed person. When I’m shooting I’m fully focussed on the result, thinking about light, composition and of course keeping up rapport. Between my preparations and her professionalism we got of to a flying start. I found I could focus much more on the photo as I didn’t have to coach a nervous person intimidated by my camera.

As the marks on the skin left there by undergarment faded so did the remainder of my nervous. Ideas developed further and the images were getting better and better. Every now and then I offered my model to hand her the drink I pored  or if she was warm enough. No matter if I hire a model or working with a client I always try to make sure they are comfortable and treat them with respect, what you give you’ll get back. And it almost goes without saying but I never ever touch a model or client, not even to brush away a stray hair. If I can’t communicate something I lead by example, which obviously has let to hilarious moments. The shoot of that day was no different.

That days shoot turned out to be one of the most fun shoots I ever had. The model I was working with was interested and really joined in. So what did i learn from this experience? Lets sum it up:

  • Will I pay for a model again for my own creative outbursts? Definitely! First thing I did is ask when she would be available again.
  • Will I plan an artistic nude shoot again? For sure. When shooting cloth people I always prefer that there clothing is as neutral as possible, if not you just run the risk of the clothing stealing the attention from the person/expresion/character. Shooting nudes is wonderful, not only the shape but every edition you make in the form of a prop becomes stronger. But maybe even more important, it inspires and feels right.

Hope you enjoy the image as much as I enjoyed making it.

portrait photography

 
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Posted by on November 20, 2010 in Photography

 

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Photography and Style

golden mean

The story: Journey of you, a novice photo enthusiast:

You have no clue about framing or composition and shoot it the way you think it looks best in the frame you see when looking through your camera’s view finder (or at the display of your digital compact). Often you’re surprised by your own work, people compliment it even!

If you have real passion for it you’d probably want to discover what makes a pleasing image just so you can make more of them. You browse around for tips on composition, pretty soon you find photography forums and galleries where fellow “photographers” burn each other for putting subjects in the middle and many more rule of third based preaching. Photos also get shot-down for having blown-out highlights and no shadow detail. You realize that many of your own pictures you like so much would get burned in almost all of these online forums, all those “expert photographers” would rip them apart.

However your passion for photography is strong, you decide to learn everything about the rule of thirds, complementary colors and all the other rules that should tell you what looks good and what doesn’t. You even switch on the grid in your view finder so you can really nail those thirds.

Months go by, maybe even years, you shoot and post the photos you like to those online forums. You always select them strictly, “Details in the shadows, CHECK! No blown out highlight, CHECK! All that is interesting on the thirds, CHECK! No horizon in the middle, CHECK!”. You’re making real progress, and no one ever writes a bad comment under your photographs! Surely all you need to do is continue like this and it won’t be long before you get recognition for your work and people will start writing positive feedback.

You upgrade your gear and you buy a full frame digital camera with the best (and most expensive) midrange zoom, more vivid colors and sharper images. You buy a Scott Kelby book and pay for a subscription on one of those video websites where real photographer tell you how its done.

On Flickr you sometimes get a nice comment, “nice work, thanks for sharing”, “cool <insert big group banner>”, “Nice colors”. On the critique forms you also sometimes get something that looks like a compliment. You start to doubt if this is really for you, maybe you’re just not good enough, maybe you do not have that special something that makes a great photographer, maybe you should start photographing naked ladies because those guys seem to get all the kudos.

You lie awake thinking about it, turning and turning, much to your cats annoyance. The next morning you poor your self a really big mug of coffee, extra sugar and the works. You place your self behind your laptop and browse around on Flickr with a single thought, “what makes my work different from those other guys”. An hour passes after which you come to a startling conclusion…. Your work isn’t any different from all those guys! Everyone seems to have followed the same class and they’re all top students, details in the shadows, no blown highlights, everything neatly arranged based on the rule of thirds. All the same all…. incredibly….. hopelessly….. B O R I N G G G !!

You nok over your second mug of hot coffee, it spills over the  table and horribly burns your leg. While limping back from the kitchen holding the fabric of your pants like a 19th century ballerina holds her skirt, you review your recent epiphany. You realize that you read published books on the matter. Not long ago you’ve seen an art program on tv explaining by example the golden mean, “The open window, to the milk kan, to the head of the man sitting at the table” all following the golden mean. But now it all seems as far fetched as those Dan Brown books!

After tending your wound you start to look for some more information to gain a bit more perspective. You find out that there’s only a handful of artworks where the golden mean can be applied, and of those only a couple of modern pieces were created with the rule as such in mind. Although invented by the Greeks most artists didn’t even know about it until people again started talking about it around 150 years ago. So this wasn’t the rule the great classic painters were using!

A bit more background

Okay until here my autobiography our story of our fictive photo enthusiast. So what’s going on here? The truth is that when our photo enthusiast was starting out with photography by photographing what, “looked good in the frame he could see through his camera”, was a much better approach. He probably experienced some emotion when looking at the scene and unconsciously that made him decide on the framing. Although there are exceptions most of the time that’s what photographers do, we find an existing composition and we have to frame it in a way so that it conveys a feeling or message that you want the viewer to experience or read.

There’s no right or wrong place within a frame! If you’re shooting a portrait for a magazine which runs a story of the modern woodworker, it would be perfectly fine to place the woodworker in the middle of his store and frame him in the middle of your picture. He’s the subject, the most important in the frame. You simply do not have a reason to put him anywhere else. If you would frame him left the picture becomes about the woodworkers workshop, for example.

Composition is much more the just the rule of thirds. It’s complex a lot of books have written on it even more talk given on the subject. You have to reach a balance between form (you’re framing and where shapes are located in the frame and their relation to the lightest and darkest values) and the story you went to tell with your photograph. Realize these two things when you’re getting ready to take a shot and you’re images will improve without knowing every single details about composition.

Nothing meaningful can be said about composition if you do not know the intention or story behind the image.

There are a host of clichés to be found on the web some are even humores, “An image should read from left to right because that’s how we read“, so we have to be able to read first before we can see? What about the people that read from right to left? Are we talking incompatible artwork?

A crude but not inaccurate description of art, “Art is creating an image or object that pleases (the onlooker)”. By that definition our photo enthusiast was well on his way of creating art when he started out.

Imagery can’t be defined by rules, of course there’re guide lines you can keep in the back of your head and which are important to know, but they should always compliment the story not the other way around.

Anyone can go on a forum an criticize your work. You’re the one that decides if a comment is useful, don’t be persuaded into a different style of photographing just because you get a lot of comments saying you’re breaking rules or you’re wrong. Just stick with it. Experiment make images you hate, fail at projects, consider selling all your gear, be desperate and then pick-up your camera again. There will come a day where you realize by looking at a photograph you made that you have found your style. A solid foundation to work on and expand.

Now go out there and switch of that silly grid in your view finder and forget about megapixels, sharp lenses, rules of third and forum bullies, if you have a reason to shoot the frame you chose you’re half way shooting a picture you’re happy with.

You can hire me or browse my portfolio

 
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Posted by on July 7, 2010 in Photography

 

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How to Calculate Flash Exposure

The Flash

It sounds pretty scary but it’s actually not that complicated if you have the manual of your flash/camera (or know how to Google). So what are the ingredients? It’s a simple division, lets get started.

Guide Number

The Guide Number of your flash unit or build in camera flash denotes it’s power at a given ISO. Lets take a build-in camera flash as an example. Common (D)SLR in camera flash on average have a Guide Number of 12 at ISO 100. Grab you manual or start Googling to find your Guide Number. <10 minutes pass> “Hey!! I have a DSLR with a Guide Number of 39!!! I’m soooooooo cool”, ah yes undoubtedly you’re a stud however you have to continue reading: Guide Numbers come in two flavors, the lower number is for people that like to use the metric system to calculate distance and the high number is for people that like to use their feet. Just like the distance scale on your lens, hey how handy is that! Which brings me to….

Distance

Because light likes to fall-off or lose power as it travels we need to take the distance between camera and subject into account. A guide could be the distance scale on your lens when your subject is in focus, but my preferred method is guessing the distance. You’d be surprised what you know you can do when you realize you can do it… So with your distance guesstimated and your guide number looked up, let’s go to.

The Division

We’re ready to calculate our flash exposure! What we need is the f-stop. Shutter speed is only for continues lighting like the sun etc. Flash duration to power ratio is to short for the shutter to have any effect (this is a whole different subject so just forget about it now) so we calculate the amount of light hitting the film or sensor surface (f-stop) and not the duration (shutter speed). We do that by a simple division, lets take the Guide Number 12 as an example and speculate that we’re 5 meters from our subject:

GN12 / 5 Meters = F2.4

For feet:

GN36 / 16 Feet = F2.2

Not to difficult I would say, setting your camera on F2.8 should be fine.

A Bit More

“What if i like to use a portable flash like my sb-800 and bounce it of the ceiling?” No problem just add that distance. So if the ceiling is 1.5 meters from you flash-head and the subject a similar amount from the ceiling you end op with a distance of 3 meters.

“If shutter speed doesn’t matter why is my camera manual talking about flash sync speed?” Okay there’s that issue. The flash sync speed of your camera is the maximum shutter speed with which your camera can keep the shutter in sync with the flash. Just don’t set you shutter any faster then that (often around 200/s) or you will start to see exposure differences between the top of your photo and the bottom. The dark part is the shutter going down in the middle of your flash pop. You can play a little with your shutter for creative effect, the longer you leave the shutter open the more available light will come in, this way you can combine your flash exposure with available light. Just play you’ll see what I mean.

“My Guide Number is calculated at ISO 100 but I want to shoot at ISO 800, now what?” That’s going to add another calculation on your Guide Number. From ISO 100 to ISO 800 is in total 3 stops more light sensitivity. This means that your flash unit becomes 3 times more effective. So the only thing you need to do is multiply you Guide Number by the amount of stops you increase your ISO. In this case GN12 x 3 stops = GN36. Be careful with this though as there’s also a minimum to the light a flash unit can output.

I really want to use my flash manually but I can’t calculate fast enough, now what?” If you use a digital camera the answer is simple, set your camera to manual and play with the power division scale (1/1, 1/2, 1/4 power) on the flash. Shoot and review. Pretty soon you’ll develop a sense for it and you’ll get it right on the first or second try. If you’re like me and love to shoot film the previous is not an option. When shooting black and white film you can really do a rough calculation just pick easy round number. I know the world parties about the ability to shoot raw and fiddle with the exposure in a raw editor, but I made 5 stop exposure errors on Kodak Tri-x 400 film and got away with it just fine.

“Do you know of an iPhone or Android app that can calculate for me?” No I don’t. You can search for it but most of camera flash units come with one build in, you probably just never knew it was there. I sometimes use my Nikon SB-800 with my Rolleicord or one of my Range Finder bodies. I switch the flash unit to manual and set the film ISO in the advanced menu. When you regulate the power level there’s a small distance scale in the top right corner which shows distance in, you guessed it, meters and feet. How is that for easy! Just guess the distance and set it, done.

Closing words

It’s actually a pretty long explanation for a very simple calculation. And if you look at the text without reading it you might think it a wast of time as your modern camera can TTL it all for you. But even if you do use your camera on full auto it’s still valuable to know why it behaves like it does, and how to make it do a bit more what you want even in auto mode. I hear often people complaining about their entry level D-SLR, saying it takes bad quality photographs, even asking me which one they should buy instead. The fact is the quality of D-SLRs these days it wonderful even if you get a really cheap one. But if you let the camera decide everything, you get what it meters for, an average picture (18% gray average to be precise).

This also goes for TTL flash exposure…

You’re walking around on a average sunny day and see a pretty flower you want to take a picture. Being already one step-up the cool leader you shoot in A mode to get that nice depth of field. You realize you have some light coming in from the background, “fill flash!”, you think and you’d be right. You pop-up the flash and let the TTL do its magic. You see some blinking in the view finder but you don’t know what it means so you quickly fully press the shutter. The result is a white background with a washed out flower in the foreground. You try to take the shot again, maybe the camera made a mistake, same result. In complete desperation you decide to gamble on taking the shot without the fill flash, quickly deciding that flashes are ugly anyway. The result is horrible, still parts of the background are blown-out and the flower now looks under exposed and lost all its vibrancy. Being beaten by your camera you decide to take the photo home and “correct” it in your wonderful raw editor. You pump up the “fill light” and play with the magic “recovery” slider to save some of the highlights, then you increase the blacks to get some contrast. Because you picked-up that book from Scott Kelby you decide to start up Photoshop and play with adjustment layers. Finally giving up you’re left with a feeling of disappointment, you blame yourself for buying the wrong camera. You decide to go read your mail, maybe someone faved a photograph you uploaded on Flickr yesterday….

What went wrong here?! The first step was the correct one, fill flash would have done the trick. But the cameras default setting to sync at 1/60th of a second when doing flash exposures was not right for this particular case! By blinking the exposure calculation in the view finder the cameras light meter even tried to warn you that it would horribly over expose the available light at 1/60th. But this wasn’t a high-noon scene and at 1/250th of a second the background would have been perfect. Sadly you had no idea, flash was still scary magic. You could have changed the default sync speed in the advanced menu, probably not the best idea. Or you could have switched your camera to manual and decide about the shutter speed yourself. You would have done that because you know what makes a flash exposure and an ambient exposure and how those two relate to each other.

Hire me or browse my portfolio

 
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Posted by on June 29, 2010 in Photography

 

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Develop black and white film

In an effort to be a better blogger I decided to write a new post. This time without the promise to write more often!

The last couple of months I’ve complete emerged my self into film photography. After wanting to do it for years but always dismissing it as being to cumbersome. What I actually ment was too daunting. Deep inside I knew I had to do it as it is an important step in the learning processes.

No wonder I waited so long with giving it a try, I made it sound like a school assignment! Not one of those fun ones but one of those really boring icky ones!

If you’re making excuses or telling your self that film is dead. Or the always funny, “I can do that with Photoshop”. With Photoshop you can emulate film, not replicate. Let it be said once again; there is a BIG difference between noise and film grain. But lets not get into that discussion. Digital is great and so is film :-) . Anyway stop making excuses you’ re depriving your self of a whole lot of fun and creative growth.

I’m actually writing this post to tell you that film is fun! The process of development is great! The smells and the experiments! Even if you completely fumble up the process you can still get creative results, how ever unexpected they may be. Also, it’s really not that hard. And no you really don’t need a special room completely blacked out. I really needed to put that last sentence in to bold as loads of people think this and a lot of articles written out there make it sound like it’s the only way (including the one I’m linking to below). A simple changing bag and you don’t need the blacked out room. Note that I refer to it as a “blacked out room” as a darkroom is where you develop your prints and has the red safety light. Although that room has to be really dark as wel it’s not as sensitive as photographic paper is not as light sensitive as film. Anyway we’re only talking about film here.

So this morning as I was going trough the latests post on feelingnegative they linked to an excellent film development tuturial on PhotoTuts+. The tutorial talks about Kodak TMax film but the process is pretty much the same for any black and white film. I have a couple of short notes/tips on the tutorial, but go read it first.

  1. You don’t need a completely blacked out room, get your self a Changing Bag. Paterson makes these and it’s the one I use.
  2. Buy a Paterson Universal development tank and buy a new one. Second hand tanks can leak or can be incomplete without you knowing until you have developer all over your hands and ruined negatives.
  3. Start out with plastique reels they’re easier for beginners. The Paterson Universal is a plastique reel system and can handle 135 and 120 film without a problem.
  4. The Massive Dev Chart is your friend! It’s a database with film and developer combination and tells you the times and temperature need to develop (and a lot more)
  5. If you have an iPhone or iPod Touch install the Massive Dev Chart app! Aside from telling you how to develop your film with a specific developer it also provides you with a timmer that guides you through the process of developing, stop and fix. It even tells you when to agitate. It’s a breeze with this little helper. They also provide the app for other mobile platforms but the iPhone version is by far the best.
  6. Your stop chemicals can be replaced with water with a little vinegar!
  7. You can skip the HypoClear I never user it. But wash properly!
  8. Never buy photo flow, it’s really bad for the environment!! You can replace it by using a little dish washer fluid. Also just using a squeegee also solves the issue. There you go saved you 3 bottles of chemicals with the last 3 points.
  9. To close some general info on shooting black and white film. The wonderful thing about most black and white film is that it’s really hard to screw up! Black and white film has a very high dynamic range. Just meeter light in the shadows and you’ll be fine.

This is pretty much it! At first glance it might look like a lot but it’s really not such an unforgiving process as it migh seem. I’ve made loads of mistakes including developing in an incomplete, liquid and light leaking tank and guess what, I still got good exposures out of it. I even once forgot the stop bath all together and still the negatives were fine.

Don’t be afraid of screw-ups! And just have fun! And I can guarantee that you end up making better photographs also when using your digital camera. I would love to hear about questions, suggestions and experience in the comments below.

 
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Posted by on May 17, 2010 in Photography

 

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