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Footwear Legends

shot taken in Berlin

Footwear Legends

I came across our anonymous photographer while working on a project. She didn’t announce herself as a photographer but while talking to her I was struck by her keen inside into street work and photography in general. I asked her if she does any work of her own and she told be about Footwear Legends. While most street photographers would focus on scenes at eye level this project differentiates itself by diving all the way down and find character in peoples footwear and legs.

The project according to our photographer:

“The project dates back to the summer of 2012. I was on a Paris metro, which was so crowded that there was no choice but to lower your eyes or else breath into the back of someone’s head. As soon as I started practicing this habit, I saw a completely different, parallel city scene. I’ve never paid so much attention to peoples feet before. I noticed the different shapes of toes seen through open toe shoes, and then of course I started to explore shoe design and the splendor of colors.
A few months after I tried on Spanish vintage boots, bought for a ridiculous amount of money in a second hand shop, I’v never felt so sexy. Unfortunately, they weren’t mine. But those two events culminated into my new passion, footwear. As told by somebody, who shortly before had no clue who Christian Louboutin or Jimmy Choo are. However this is not about brands, it’s about people who decorate their legs and make steps which I want to capture. I call them Footwear Legends.

From the get go I completely adored this project. Flipping through the Tumbler stream of images you’ll discover an amazing amount of diversity. From down right erotic too funny and interesting. Apparently we say a lot more with how we adorne the the lower extremity of the leg then we realize. Our anonymous photographer gets around so expect to see a wide a wide plethora of cultures getting around and becoming Footwear Legends.

I’d say that this project deserves our support and attention, so check it out and/or follow at the addresses bellow.

http://footwearlegends.tumblr.com/

http://www.facebook.com/FootwearLegends

I’ll be following this project closely and post any updates on it in the future. Thanks to our anonymous photographer for the text and image attached to this post.

 
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Posted by on April 21, 2013 in Photography

 

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Epson R2880 with Ilford Gold Fiber Silk

Image

After having it on my to-buy list for a couple of years I finally went ahead and got the Epson R2880. The initial reason I wanted one was to print better quality digital negatives for my Vandyke brown process. However I did a couple of really nice shoots in the past month so I thought why not actually make a really nice black and white print on proper paper and see what I could end up with. A quick trip to the photography store where I went completely nuts and bought 10 sheets of Ilford Gold Fiber Silk A3+ paper, which set me back about 50 bucks. You might think that just going to a lab and having them print your image is way cheaper, and you would be right, however in my experience they usually don’t manage to make proper black and white prints. When you do have a lab that’s able to do so you usually want them to print samples first and then decide. That means a lot of driving to and fro and still not really being in control of the process. In short I much prefer to just do it all myself.

So with my nice box of paper under my arm I headed home. I spend a week looking at my photos deciding which would be best to print. While processing photos in the back of my mind I dove into books and posts to figure out how to get the most out of the printer but also how to not waste a piece of paper that costs 5 bucks.

In the end I went with the experience I have printing negatives and the ICC paper profile from Ilford. I double checked my print for details that might not be so obvious on screen but would stick out like a sore thumb on a print. I zoomed in at a 100% print size and went over the photo inch by inch. We’re talking here about a 21 megapixel file at 300dpi so I took my time doing this.

After I was satisfied with all the details I did some extra sharpening and decided to open up a levels adjustment layer in photoshop and set my black out put to 5 instead of zero. Now this isn’t strictly necessary when working with profiles but this image has a lot of blacks in it and I felt that on semi glossy reflective material the blacks at this level would be black enough.

Alright next step. I loaded up the color profile from the Ilford site into photoshop, I’m not going into the details on that as the documentation on the Ilford site is perfect and the ICC profiles are very easy to find, kudos to Ilford on that one.

So here we go. I always resize my prints myself and never let the printer software do it, I’d recommend that you do the same. Often times it’s best to let your printer manage color but using the Gold Fiber Silk profile I didn’t go that route this time. I let photoshop manage color, and selected the Ilford Gold Fiber Silk profile from the drop down list. Next step was to set color matching to Relative and of course, send 16-bit data to the printer. I generally avoid printing in 8-bit mode, I feel it’s much safer for nice gradations when you just opt for 16-bit. If you have the information why throw it away, right?

Alright, next step is to also in your printer configure dialog to setup photoshop to manage colors (anything but colorsync). When you accidentally forget this photoshop will detect that you fumbled up your color settings so don’t worry.

Now this is very important, printing on fiber paper even if it isn’t glossy it’s very important to:

  1. Have your photo black cartridge loaded (you can exchange them as long as  you put the cartridge you removed in a sealed plastique bag).
  2. Set the paper type in the printer config to Epson Premium Glossy.

Really make sure that you have those 2 points setup correctly.

Okay moving on to things-I-do-because-they-make-me-feel-good. While still being in the printer dialog I set the Epson R2880 to print with Super Photo 5760dpi (so highest quality). Then I switch off fast printing, almost everyone leaves this switch on, however I’m not in a hurry and I like to give the ink some extra time to dry before it roles out, dust is our mortal enemy in printing.

So last step is to clean my printer and the space around it with a very soft lightly moist cloth to remove any dust that might fall onto my print (yeah I know I go a bit nuts, but I have had instances where I had to reprint because of this).

So after hitting print it was waiting for the first stroke of the print to pop out so I could judge it. If I don’t like what I see I can hit cancel and save ink, the rest of the paper I would then use to test print settings. However in this case that wasn’t necessary at all, I could immediately see that the blacks were really black and didn’t have any color fringing going on when gradating to lighter grays. With the biggest smile on my face I just waited for the rest of the print to finish.

Am I such a brilliant printer? No, I’m not. Without getting any money from Ilford for saying this, but the reason I got such a wonderful print on the first go is because they did their work properly! Ilford provides seriously perfect color profiles for their papers and there’s nothing in my article about printing to it that you can’t read in their documentation. In short they did a really superb job.

And of course the lovely Epson R2880 with Epsons K3 inks. Especially for the money they go for these days you just can’t go wrong with it.

 
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Posted by on March 24, 2013 in Photography

 

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Holga and the sunny and cloudy switch

Holga

Okay it took me some time to figure this one out. Turnout that there’re Holga’s with a working sunny/cloudy switch and there’re Holga’s where it doesn’t change the F-stop at all. The rule to this is actually fairly simple, if you have a glass lens Holga (the GN) you really do have 2 F-stop settings, the plastic lens Holga’s have one F-stop setting and changing the little nob to cloudy or sunny won’t change a thing. For me at least, mystery solved :-)

 
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Posted by on March 22, 2013 in Photography

 

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An ode to film

785712_film_negative

For the first time since a year and a half I developed a film again. I had the honor to develop the now discontinued film Fuji Neopan 400, which is an amazing black and white film.

It was as though I never stopped, the measuring of chemicals the smell of fixer and the ticking of the clock. I know Meatlove sang about “paradise by the dashboard light”, but I seem to find it by a bunch of highly toxic photo chemicals.

I’m not going to turn this into a rant against digital; my film is hanging to dry and one remains decent around a lady. I just want to say, film I love you and you’ll always have a devoted follower in me.

Yours truly,

Theodoor Thomas

 
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Posted by on February 28, 2013 in Photography

 

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Holgaroid and light metering

Holgaroid

 

(Update 22-04-2013: The article bellow describes using the back with the GN glass lens Holga)

Yesterday I finally got my Holgaroid back in the mail, it traveled all the way from Hong Kong to my doorstep in The Netherlands. Opening the box it came with the back (without film) and a diopter lens to correct for the new film plane distance as with the instant back that moves a couple of millies backwards. It also comes with a new frame you can click into your holga instead of the 6×6 or 6×4.5 But let me first start of with 2 questions and their simple answers.

Q: Polaroid doesn’t make film anymore so why would I want one?

A: Correct they don’t but FujiFilm does and since instant film is still used in science labs they won’t stop making it tomorrow.

Q: I never shot instant film and I have no clue what film to use?

A: Fuji Film sadly discontinued there ISO 400 color and black and white film which would have been perfect for the Holgaroid. But fear not we have tricks up our sleeves! So there are 3 films still available

  1. FujiFilm FP-100C Professional. Which is an ISO 100 color film
  2. FujiFilm FP-3000B. Which is a ISO 3000 Black and white film
  3. FujiFilm FP-100C Silk. Also a ISO 100 film but with a satin finish

Metering and Corrections

Okay, let me start of with the simplest mod you can do. You ready? here it goes: Don’t install the new frame! Now that was easy. Alright I’ll tell you why. Holgaroids can’t do full frame FP film size so your image will always land on the left side of the film when viewed horizontally. The reason is that the Holga lens can’t cover the entire frame (the Diana lens can here is a guide how), so you get a round feathered image. Now I don’t care too much about the round feathered image but I really didn’t like the fact is was round and feathered on one side and a straight line on the other. The straight cut off is caused by the frame they give you with it. Just don’t install the frame and it all looks even.

One of the first things I started sweating and stressing out about is how to figure out what to set my light meter to now. Usually you can get away with using an ISO 400 film and applying the sunny 16 rule, if it’s clouded all you do is throw it in flash/clouded mode and you can continue. You can’t use your Holga this way anymore!
When you move your film plain back it will effect your f-stop, when you stick something in front of your lens less light reaches the film plain. See the problem here? The Holgaroid does both… On top of that we only get to choose between 100 ISO film and 3000 ISO film. If we had a 400 ISO film we could have gotten away with only shooting on high noon and the camera set on it’s couldy/flash setting, but we don’t have that.

ISO 100 Film

All isn’t lost! And to be honest in some ways it makes it even easier to shoot inside. Let me explain. So we loose a whole load of light due to the Holgaroid mod, then we load it up with ISO 100 film which is also less sensitive. Because you’re loosing so much light you can now actually count the seconds! The only thing you need is a tripod (and I would get the cable release mod as well, I have it and it works very well).

Here’s how it work. Grab a light meter and set your Holga to the cloudy/flash setting. Normally that would make your Holga work on F16. I know there are a lot of posts out there that say it’s F8, they’re wrong, sorry. Anyway due to the new distance of the film plain and the diopter lens, that turns out to be F32 now :-) How’s that for crazy! Set your lightmeter to ISO 100 and keep cycling the shutter speed until the display says the F-stop is 32. In side on a cloudy day next to the window that will give you a shutter of 2 seconds more or less. Easy to count no problem. So that takes care of the ISO color film. Let’s move on to the ISO 3000 film.

ISO 3000 Film

So this is cute, mega sensitive film! But now it will over expose on a sunny day in the Holgaroid and still under expose inside. Worse still it will just underexpose a bit inside which means we can’t use a cable release as the shutter will be n’th of a second and we can’t really count that.

Okay lets go with outside first. The solution is really easy. When you get to much light at 100th of a second (the shutter speed of the Holga) make sure you get less light. You can go about this by just using an ND filter but why not use a cheap black and white color filter, they eat up light as well and you get to be a little bit more creative. Usually a stop or 2 on a sunny day with that camera on sunny setting is really more then enough. Red filters tend to eat away just that. If you don’t have a red filter that fits your Holga you can also just get a cheap gel. It really doesn’t matter much as the Holga doesn’t have a high quality lens anyway and lets be honest if you want images like that you’d probably not be shooting with a Holga to begin with.

Inside the same trick works but I’d use a ND filter, you want to get in to the second(s) range again so you can count of your own exposure time. Pretty straight forward really.

Flash

Flash with the Holgaroid works well when you want some fill flash and/or fixing people into place. I use an external flash for this as I seriously doubt that the build in Holga flash is strong enough to do even that (I own a flash less model so this is pure speculation on my part). You have to experiment a bit with flash to see what it does for you. But I can already tell you if you don’t have something like a mega flash unit but rather a simple hot shoe flash just start by giving it two flash exposures and see what you get.

Conclusion

I realize that instant film isn’t the cheapest thing out there so I imagine that at the price of a Holgaroid and the cost in figuring these things out, most people just decide to skip this project all together. However it’s a lot of fun and often the results are really wonderful. So if you’re considering getting one and you’re reading this I’d say go for it! With the information supplied here I’ve saved you a pack of film it cost me about 10 shot to get all exposures and numbers figured out.

If you want to support polaroid and instant film have a look at http://www.polaroidconversions.com/ as long as there’s a community and a healthy user base we can keep having fun with this.

 
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Posted by on February 24, 2013 in Photography

 

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Women by Bas Adriaans

Women by Bas Adriaans

Women by Bas Adriaans

This rather generic, but aptly, named book by Bas Adriaans saw the light of day 4 months ago. Back then I gave it some attention on this blog with a short description and a link to Blurb where you can preview and buy the book. However I would like to give a bit more background information on how this book came to be, it so happens that I had the privilege of being a close observer of the blood, sweat and maybe even tears, that made Women what it is today. I’ve seen many preliminary versions of the book, different formats, shapes and sizes. When finally he decided on the photographs he spend months tinkering with the order in which they had to appear in the book.

But who is Bas Adriaans? A little excerpt from the book.

“Commercial and fine art photographer Bas Adriaans (1971, Eindhoven) is already an Interior Design graduate when he is accepted into the Royal Academy of Visual Arts in The Hague to study photography. His zeal for the medium does not go unnoticed. Before long he is offered a select opportunity to assist acclaimed Dutch photographers Jan Zwart, Bert Teunissen, Gerrit Schreurs and Johan Vigeveno. After he completes his formal training in 1997 he enters the professional sphere and finds his commercial portfolio growing steadily with a diverse range of editorial, advertising and corporate assignments.

Throughout he continues his conceptual explorations of the female form which have since become part of an impressive series of fine art nudes.”

As the text reads Women comes forth of the above mentioned conceptual exploration. I know Bas Adriaans to live and breath his passion for the female form in photography. When talking to him he’ll regularly mention his latest discoveries and thoughts on the subject. A lot of women in the book he boldly approached on the street, politely expressing his interest and presenting them with a business card and a link to his portfolio. He treats his subjects with respect and has been known to stand in the kitchen himself to prepare lunch before the start of the shoot. However when the shoot starts it’s business, this is where his zeal truly shows, he expects the best of himself but also from his models.

The book shows some of his best work, often sensitive and beautiful but at times erotic and enticing. The angel dressed in a delicate white shirt revealing just the rounding of her bosom, the anonymous details that hint toward a fetish. What on one page is carefully concealed is revealed in detail on the next. One thing you’ll notice is that Bas Adriaans stays away from full nudes or portraying the female genitalia. He hints but never fully reveals.

Women by Bas Adriaans is available in three versions softcover, hardcover with dust jacket and printed hardcover. As mentioned the book is available through Blurb which means only a limited part of the proceedings go to the artist, which is a shame considering the amount of work that went into this publication. However if we buy enough of them we might get Bas Adriaans to do Women Part 2, who knows.

Order your copy or preview

If you want to know more about Bas Adriaans you can find his portfolio at http://basadriaans.com

 
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Posted by on February 14, 2013 in Photography

 

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Rapture by Rob Verbunt

Rapture

Rapture

Rob Verbunt a recent graduate of the Academy of Photography in The Netherlands. Graduated with his project Rapture. By his own description:

Rapture shows an intimate series of images about being enraptured, achieving or passing borders and the thin line between appropriate and inappropriate, pleasure or displeasure.
In Rapture, living the images while shooting, was as important as to publish them. To enhance the imagery of the theme, pinhole photography, long exposure times and the mixing of light with different color temperatures were being used.

His choice for equipment and lighting complements the idea of the project very well. Flowing lines and soft shapes erotic in nature while at the same time in darkness seems to suggest to some forbidden fruit. As still often in our society our automatic response is one of disapproval when something feels too good or when – being enraptured.

His work reminded me of Magnum photographer Antoine d’Agata and in particular his Stigma project. Where the work of Antoine d’Agata on Stigma is confronting and at times harsh, then Rapture is much easier to relate to and kinder on the soul.

More project information and the photographs can be found on http://fairbuns.nl his official website.

 
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Posted by on February 5, 2013 in Photography

 

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Van Dyke Brown part1

Vandyke brown print

Vandyke brown print

A Van Dyke Brown or vdb print is a contact print technique  not unlike the better know Cyanotype. Unlike the  Cyanotype the Van Dyke Brown print produces a brown (actually more Sepia like) print. I always had an interest in old photography techniques but never really dove into to them in detail. When reading and researching about wet plate photography I stumbled upon a video of making a Van Dyke Brown print and decided to take a side step from my wet plate adventure and dive into Van Dyke Brown printing. I really loved the look and the relative simplicity of the processes and figured this would be a nice introduction to alternative photography in general. I’m not regretting it!

It’s really to bad that so little is know about these processes as they can compliment digital works very well. If you think that these techniques are only for the darkroom veterans think again! You can print out perfect digital negatives and start printing with these techniques in no time. Interesting enough these alternative processes have become a lot easier with todays cheap inkjet photo printers. My aim is to get you a nice head start with this post so you don’t have to do all the searching around that I had to do. A small disclaimer here, I’m by no means an expert! I’ve learned this process by reading other peoples articles and a really good book on printing digital negatives, I will link and refer to all of it so you can check it out your self. Let’s get started!

Although I did make prints with 4×5 negatives I will focus this post more towards the digital workflow. I shoot mostly film these days but when making a Van Dyke Brown I have the habit of scanning the negative (16bit) and convert it in photoshop to a perfect Van Dyke Brown negative, more on this later.

Let’s start with what you need and why

  • Van Dyke Brown emulsion is only sensitive to UV light. Some people will also refer to Van Dyke Brown to Sun Print. So what you need is an UV light source. The sun of course will work fine I made my first prints this way. Even on a cloudy day you’ll have enough UV light to expose, although your exposure times will increase. Because the sun will output a different amount of UV light depending on the weather and time of day I decided to buy a 15 euro UV face browning unit of e-bay. Even new you can get these units for around 50 euros. They work really well and produces a constant amount of UV light. That’s really the only thing that’s important if you want reproducible results, it doesn’t matter if you make mistakes as long as you make the same mistake every time (not counting forgetting to switch the light on of course).
  • You also need something to press your negative against the paper when exposing. The best thing would be a split back contact printing frame. Instead of me using a lot of words to describe what that would look like or what it is just watch this video on youtube, it also provides a nice overview of the complete processes, be sure to return though as there is some more information I can give you to make your VDB life easier, here it is. Impressive isn’t it? As you can see this guy made a beautiful home made split back contact printing frame. He really needs it to as he’s using sunlight to expose. The good news is that you probably already have a contact printing frame and never knew it! A plain picture frame! This is what I use, I just went out and bought one of those really handy a4 sized frames they sell now, be sure to get one with a wooden back and not cardboard. When you get home just grab the thinnest saw you have and saw it in two at about 1/3 of the back, grab some ducktape and duck it back to gather. There you go, a split back contact printing frame. Presure between the print and the negative is important so later on you can always buy some screws and metal plates that you can move around to make a better fit, I’ll do a write up on that as well and show you what I did. But don’t worry to much about it now, just get started. If you can’t wait to start building here’s a really good how-to
  • Okay, Moving on! Now for the really easy part. Getting the chemicals needed, if you’re living in the US you’re in luck, you guys got all the cool shops that sell everything for alternative processes. I bought my first set from Bostick & Sullivan. I recommend getting this set as it contains enough chemicals for lots of prints and it includes the fixer, everything you need and you don’t have to mix chemicals your self. It also includes a nice manual which will give you a couple of good tips. In my experience the amount of sensitizer they advise to use is a bit on the high side, however this also depends on the paper you use. In europe we have Moersch for all your photo chemical needs, they also sell the VDB sensitizer, this set only contains the sensitizer so no fixer.
  • A brush to paint the sensitizer on the paper. I like to use a nice soft goat hair brush, you can get these at art shops, no problem. You can also use a foam brush, these are something like 1 euro and you can also pick them up at an art shop
  • Now that you’re at that art shop anyway also pickup some watercolor paper. This is what you will use to paint the sensitizer on. I sugest starting with a bit thicker paper, Arches hot pressed and Arches cold pressed will work nicely. There is a lot to be said about paper I started out with the cheapest watercolor paper I could find. In my case that was still 100% cotton and it worked fine. Want to know more, check here they keep a list of what papers work well. And here and explanatory video on paper
  • Okay, almost there! Last thing on your list should be transparency film for you inkjet printer. This last bit is important it has to be for inkjet printers, it’s really easy to accidentally buy it for a laster printer which will not work and make a big sticky inky mess of everything. The film you see everyone recommending is the transparency film from Pictorico, which you can buy here. However I had some trouble finding that here in the EU so I just went to the office supply store and bought some random stuff, guess what, works just fine. Now when I say, “works just fine” I really mean for my needs, a master printer that goes for perfection will probably have some really good arguments against it, however I’m not looking for perfection I’m looking for acceptable random imperfections. This is what make prints come alive to me.

So after you collected all this you’re basically ready to start with the processes. I realize there is a lot of basic info here and you really haven’t got any instructions yet on how to actually start coating the paper and printing the negative. If you visited the links I provided you at least seen a movie that shows the process from beginning to end so you know where we’re going.

In version 2 of this article I’m going to explain how to print the negative. We will be using a nice Photoshop plugin that is going to create a correction curve for us to make the perfect Van Dyke Brown print, you will be amazed how beautiful and full of detail these prints can be. The closing 3de article we will go into more advanced techniques like toning and when to double coat or single coat and how to deal with delicate papers.

But for now keep an eye out for part 2 of this series coming soon.

 
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Posted by on March 8, 2011 in Photography

 

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Photography and Style

golden mean

The story: Journey of you, a novice photo enthusiast:

You have no clue about framing or composition and shoot it the way you think it looks best in the frame you see when looking through your camera’s view finder (or at the display of your digital compact). Often you’re surprised by your own work, people compliment it even!

If you have real passion for it you’d probably want to discover what makes a pleasing image just so you can make more of them. You browse around for tips on composition, pretty soon you find photography forums and galleries where fellow “photographers” burn each other for putting subjects in the middle and many more rule of third based preaching. Photos also get shot-down for having blown-out highlights and no shadow detail. You realize that many of your own pictures you like so much would get burned in almost all of these online forums, all those “expert photographers” would rip them apart.

However your passion for photography is strong, you decide to learn everything about the rule of thirds, complementary colors and all the other rules that should tell you what looks good and what doesn’t. You even switch on the grid in your view finder so you can really nail those thirds.

Months go by, maybe even years, you shoot and post the photos you like to those online forums. You always select them strictly, “Details in the shadows, CHECK! No blown out highlight, CHECK! All that is interesting on the thirds, CHECK! No horizon in the middle, CHECK!”. You’re making real progress, and no one ever writes a bad comment under your photographs! Surely all you need to do is continue like this and it won’t be long before you get recognition for your work and people will start writing positive feedback.

You upgrade your gear and you buy a full frame digital camera with the best (and most expensive) midrange zoom, more vivid colors and sharper images. You buy a Scott Kelby book and pay for a subscription on one of those video websites where real photographer tell you how its done.

On Flickr you sometimes get a nice comment, “nice work, thanks for sharing”, “cool <insert big group banner>”, “Nice colors”. On the critique forms you also sometimes get something that looks like a compliment. You start to doubt if this is really for you, maybe you’re just not good enough, maybe you do not have that special something that makes a great photographer, maybe you should start photographing naked ladies because those guys seem to get all the kudos.

You lie awake thinking about it, turning and turning, much to your cats annoyance. The next morning you poor your self a really big mug of coffee, extra sugar and the works. You place your self behind your laptop and browse around on Flickr with a single thought, “what makes my work different from those other guys”. An hour passes after which you come to a startling conclusion…. Your work isn’t any different from all those guys! Everyone seems to have followed the same class and they’re all top students, details in the shadows, no blown highlights, everything neatly arranged based on the rule of thirds. All the same all…. incredibly….. hopelessly….. B O R I N G G G !!

You nok over your second mug of hot coffee, it spills over the  table and horribly burns your leg. While limping back from the kitchen holding the fabric of your pants like a 19th century ballerina holds her skirt, you review your recent epiphany. You realize that you read published books on the matter. Not long ago you’ve seen an art program on tv explaining by example the golden mean, “The open window, to the milk kan, to the head of the man sitting at the table” all following the golden mean. But now it all seems as far fetched as those Dan Brown books!

After tending your wound you start to look for some more information to gain a bit more perspective. You find out that there’s only a handful of artworks where the golden mean can be applied, and of those only a couple of modern pieces were created with the rule as such in mind. Although invented by the Greeks most artists didn’t even know about it until people again started talking about it around 150 years ago. So this wasn’t the rule the great classic painters were using!

A bit more background

Okay until here my autobiography our story of our fictive photo enthusiast. So what’s going on here? The truth is that when our photo enthusiast was starting out with photography by photographing what, “looked good in the frame he could see through his camera”, was a much better approach. He probably experienced some emotion when looking at the scene and unconsciously that made him decide on the framing. Although there are exceptions most of the time that’s what photographers do, we find an existing composition and we have to frame it in a way so that it conveys a feeling or message that you want the viewer to experience or read.

There’s no right or wrong place within a frame! If you’re shooting a portrait for a magazine which runs a story of the modern woodworker, it would be perfectly fine to place the woodworker in the middle of his store and frame him in the middle of your picture. He’s the subject, the most important in the frame. You simply do not have a reason to put him anywhere else. If you would frame him left the picture becomes about the woodworkers workshop, for example.

Composition is much more the just the rule of thirds. It’s complex a lot of books have written on it even more talk given on the subject. You have to reach a balance between form (you’re framing and where shapes are located in the frame and their relation to the lightest and darkest values) and the story you went to tell with your photograph. Realize these two things when you’re getting ready to take a shot and you’re images will improve without knowing every single details about composition.

Nothing meaningful can be said about composition if you do not know the intention or story behind the image.

There are a host of clichés to be found on the web some are even humores, “An image should read from left to right because that’s how we read“, so we have to be able to read first before we can see? What about the people that read from right to left? Are we talking incompatible artwork?

A crude but not inaccurate description of art, “Art is creating an image or object that pleases (the onlooker)”. By that definition our photo enthusiast was well on his way of creating art when he started out.

Imagery can’t be defined by rules, of course there’re guide lines you can keep in the back of your head and which are important to know, but they should always compliment the story not the other way around.

Anyone can go on a forum an criticize your work. You’re the one that decides if a comment is useful, don’t be persuaded into a different style of photographing just because you get a lot of comments saying you’re breaking rules or you’re wrong. Just stick with it. Experiment make images you hate, fail at projects, consider selling all your gear, be desperate and then pick-up your camera again. There will come a day where you realize by looking at a photograph you made that you have found your style. A solid foundation to work on and expand.

Now go out there and switch of that silly grid in your view finder and forget about megapixels, sharp lenses, rules of third and forum bullies, if you have a reason to shoot the frame you chose you’re half way shooting a picture you’re happy with.

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Posted by on July 7, 2010 in Photography

 

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How to Calculate Flash Exposure

The Flash

It sounds pretty scary but it’s actually not that complicated if you have the manual of your flash/camera (or know how to Google). So what are the ingredients? It’s a simple division, lets get started.

Guide Number

The Guide Number of your flash unit or build in camera flash denotes it’s power at a given ISO. Lets take a build-in camera flash as an example. Common (D)SLR in camera flash on average have a Guide Number of 12 at ISO 100. Grab you manual or start Googling to find your Guide Number. <10 minutes pass> “Hey!! I have a DSLR with a Guide Number of 39!!! I’m soooooooo cool”, ah yes undoubtedly you’re a stud however you have to continue reading: Guide Numbers come in two flavors, the lower number is for people that like to use the metric system to calculate distance and the high number is for people that like to use their feet. Just like the distance scale on your lens, hey how handy is that! Which brings me to….

Distance

Because light likes to fall-off or lose power as it travels we need to take the distance between camera and subject into account. A guide could be the distance scale on your lens when your subject is in focus, but my preferred method is guessing the distance. You’d be surprised what you know you can do when you realize you can do it… So with your distance guesstimated and your guide number looked up, let’s go to.

The Division

We’re ready to calculate our flash exposure! What we need is the f-stop. Shutter speed is only for continues lighting like the sun etc. Flash duration to power ratio is to short for the shutter to have any effect (this is a whole different subject so just forget about it now) so we calculate the amount of light hitting the film or sensor surface (f-stop) and not the duration (shutter speed). We do that by a simple division, lets take the Guide Number 12 as an example and speculate that we’re 5 meters from our subject:

GN12 / 5 Meters = F2.4

For feet:

GN36 / 16 Feet = F2.2

Not to difficult I would say, setting your camera on F2.8 should be fine.

A Bit More

“What if i like to use a portable flash like my sb-800 and bounce it of the ceiling?” No problem just add that distance. So if the ceiling is 1.5 meters from you flash-head and the subject a similar amount from the ceiling you end op with a distance of 3 meters.

“If shutter speed doesn’t matter why is my camera manual talking about flash sync speed?” Okay there’s that issue. The flash sync speed of your camera is the maximum shutter speed with which your camera can keep the shutter in sync with the flash. Just don’t set you shutter any faster then that (often around 200/s) or you will start to see exposure differences between the top of your photo and the bottom. The dark part is the shutter going down in the middle of your flash pop. You can play a little with your shutter for creative effect, the longer you leave the shutter open the more available light will come in, this way you can combine your flash exposure with available light. Just play you’ll see what I mean.

“My Guide Number is calculated at ISO 100 but I want to shoot at ISO 800, now what?” That’s going to add another calculation on your Guide Number. From ISO 100 to ISO 800 is in total 3 stops more light sensitivity. This means that your flash unit becomes 3 times more effective. So the only thing you need to do is multiply you Guide Number by the amount of stops you increase your ISO. In this case GN12 x 3 stops = GN36. Be careful with this though as there’s also a minimum to the light a flash unit can output.

I really want to use my flash manually but I can’t calculate fast enough, now what?” If you use a digital camera the answer is simple, set your camera to manual and play with the power division scale (1/1, 1/2, 1/4 power) on the flash. Shoot and review. Pretty soon you’ll develop a sense for it and you’ll get it right on the first or second try. If you’re like me and love to shoot film the previous is not an option. When shooting black and white film you can really do a rough calculation just pick easy round number. I know the world parties about the ability to shoot raw and fiddle with the exposure in a raw editor, but I made 5 stop exposure errors on Kodak Tri-x 400 film and got away with it just fine.

“Do you know of an iPhone or Android app that can calculate for me?” No I don’t. You can search for it but most of camera flash units come with one build in, you probably just never knew it was there. I sometimes use my Nikon SB-800 with my Rolleicord or one of my Range Finder bodies. I switch the flash unit to manual and set the film ISO in the advanced menu. When you regulate the power level there’s a small distance scale in the top right corner which shows distance in, you guessed it, meters and feet. How is that for easy! Just guess the distance and set it, done.

Closing words

It’s actually a pretty long explanation for a very simple calculation. And if you look at the text without reading it you might think it a wast of time as your modern camera can TTL it all for you. But even if you do use your camera on full auto it’s still valuable to know why it behaves like it does, and how to make it do a bit more what you want even in auto mode. I hear often people complaining about their entry level D-SLR, saying it takes bad quality photographs, even asking me which one they should buy instead. The fact is the quality of D-SLRs these days it wonderful even if you get a really cheap one. But if you let the camera decide everything, you get what it meters for, an average picture (18% gray average to be precise).

This also goes for TTL flash exposure…

You’re walking around on a average sunny day and see a pretty flower you want to take a picture. Being already one step-up the cool leader you shoot in A mode to get that nice depth of field. You realize you have some light coming in from the background, “fill flash!”, you think and you’d be right. You pop-up the flash and let the TTL do its magic. You see some blinking in the view finder but you don’t know what it means so you quickly fully press the shutter. The result is a white background with a washed out flower in the foreground. You try to take the shot again, maybe the camera made a mistake, same result. In complete desperation you decide to gamble on taking the shot without the fill flash, quickly deciding that flashes are ugly anyway. The result is horrible, still parts of the background are blown-out and the flower now looks under exposed and lost all its vibrancy. Being beaten by your camera you decide to take the photo home and “correct” it in your wonderful raw editor. You pump up the “fill light” and play with the magic “recovery” slider to save some of the highlights, then you increase the blacks to get some contrast. Because you picked-up that book from Scott Kelby you decide to start up Photoshop and play with adjustment layers. Finally giving up you’re left with a feeling of disappointment, you blame yourself for buying the wrong camera. You decide to go read your mail, maybe someone faved a photograph you uploaded on Flickr yesterday….

What went wrong here?! The first step was the correct one, fill flash would have done the trick. But the cameras default setting to sync at 1/60th of a second when doing flash exposures was not right for this particular case! By blinking the exposure calculation in the view finder the cameras light meter even tried to warn you that it would horribly over expose the available light at 1/60th. But this wasn’t a high-noon scene and at 1/250th of a second the background would have been perfect. Sadly you had no idea, flash was still scary magic. You could have changed the default sync speed in the advanced menu, probably not the best idea. Or you could have switched your camera to manual and decide about the shutter speed yourself. You would have done that because you know what makes a flash exposure and an ambient exposure and how those two relate to each other.

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Posted by on June 29, 2010 in Photography

 

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