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Epson R2880 with Ilford Gold Fiber Silk

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After having it on my to-buy list for a couple of years I finally went ahead and got the Epson R2880. The initial reason I wanted one was to print better quality digital negatives for my Vandyke brown process. However I did a couple of really nice shoots in the past month so I thought why not actually make a really nice black and white print on proper paper and see what I could end up with. A quick trip to the photography store where I went completely nuts and bought 10 sheets of Ilford Gold Fiber Silk A3+ paper, which set me back about 50 bucks. You might think that just going to a lab and having them print your image is way cheaper, and you would be right, however in my experience they usually don’t manage to make proper black and white prints. When you do have a lab that’s able to do so you usually want them to print samples first and then decide. That means a lot of driving to and fro and still not really being in control of the process. In short I much prefer to just do it all myself.

So with my nice box of paper under my arm I headed home. I spend a week looking at my photos deciding which would be best to print. While processing photos in the back of my mind I dove into books and posts to figure out how to get the most out of the printer but also how to not waste a piece of paper that costs 5 bucks.

In the end I went with the experience I have printing negatives and the ICC paper profile from Ilford. I double checked my print for details that might not be so obvious on screen but would stick out like a sore thumb on a print. I zoomed in at a 100% print size and went over the photo inch by inch. We’re talking here about a 21 megapixel file at 300dpi so I took my time doing this.

After I was satisfied with all the details I did some extra sharpening and decided to open up a levels adjustment layer in photoshop and set my black out put to 5 instead of zero. Now this isn’t strictly necessary when working with profiles but this image has a lot of blacks in it and I felt that on semi glossy reflective material the blacks at this level would be black enough.

Alright next step. I loaded up the color profile from the Ilford site into photoshop, I’m not going into the details on that as the documentation on the Ilford site is perfect and the ICC profiles are very easy to find, kudos to Ilford on that one.

So here we go. I always resize my prints myself and never let the printer software do it, I’d recommend that you do the same. Often times it’s best to let your printer manage color but using the Gold Fiber Silk profile I didn’t go that route this time. I let photoshop manage color, and selected the Ilford Gold Fiber Silk profile from the drop down list. Next step was to set color matching to Relative and of course, send 16-bit data to the printer. I generally avoid printing in 8-bit mode, I feel it’s much safer for nice gradations when you just opt for 16-bit. If you have the information why throw it away, right?

Alright, next step is to also in your printer configure dialog to setup photoshop to manage colors (anything but colorsync). When you accidentally forget this photoshop will detect that you fumbled up your color settings so don’t worry.

Now this is very important, printing on fiber paper even if it isn’t glossy it’s very important to:

  1. Have your photo black cartridge loaded (you can exchange them as long as  you put the cartridge you removed in a sealed plastique bag).
  2. Set the paper type in the printer config to Epson Premium Glossy.

Really make sure that you have those 2 points setup correctly.

Okay moving on to things-I-do-because-they-make-me-feel-good. While still being in the printer dialog I set the Epson R2880 to print with Super Photo 5760dpi (so highest quality). Then I switch off fast printing, almost everyone leaves this switch on, however I’m not in a hurry and I like to give the ink some extra time to dry before it roles out, dust is our mortal enemy in printing.

So last step is to clean my printer and the space around it with a very soft lightly moist cloth to remove any dust that might fall onto my print (yeah I know I go a bit nuts, but I have had instances where I had to reprint because of this).

So after hitting print it was waiting for the first stroke of the print to pop out so I could judge it. If I don’t like what I see I can hit cancel and save ink, the rest of the paper I would then use to test print settings. However in this case that wasn’t necessary at all, I could immediately see that the blacks were really black and didn’t have any color fringing going on when gradating to lighter grays. With the biggest smile on my face I just waited for the rest of the print to finish.

Am I such a brilliant printer? No, I’m not. Without getting any money from Ilford for saying this, but the reason I got such a wonderful print on the first go is because they did their work properly! Ilford provides seriously perfect color profiles for their papers and there’s nothing in my article about printing to it that you can’t read in their documentation. In short they did a really superb job.

And of course the lovely Epson R2880 with Epsons K3 inks. Especially for the money they go for these days you just can’t go wrong with it.

 
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Posted by on March 24, 2013 in Photography

 

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Develop black and white film

In an effort to be a better blogger I decided to write a new post. This time without the promise to write more often!

The last couple of months I’ve complete emerged my self into film photography. After wanting to do it for years but always dismissing it as being to cumbersome. What I actually ment was too daunting. Deep inside I knew I had to do it as it is an important step in the learning processes.

No wonder I waited so long with giving it a try, I made it sound like a school assignment! Not one of those fun ones but one of those really boring icky ones!

If you’re making excuses or telling your self that film is dead. Or the always funny, “I can do that with Photoshop”. With Photoshop you can emulate film, not replicate. Let it be said once again; there is a BIG difference between noise and film grain. But lets not get into that discussion. Digital is great and so is film :-) . Anyway stop making excuses you’ re depriving your self of a whole lot of fun and creative growth.

I’m actually writing this post to tell you that film is fun! The process of development is great! The smells and the experiments! Even if you completely fumble up the process you can still get creative results, how ever unexpected they may be. Also, it’s really not that hard. And no you really don’t need a special room completely blacked out. I really needed to put that last sentence in to bold as loads of people think this and a lot of articles written out there make it sound like it’s the only way (including the one I’m linking to below). A simple changing bag and you don’t need the blacked out room. Note that I refer to it as a “blacked out room” as a darkroom is where you develop your prints and has the red safety light. Although that room has to be really dark as wel it’s not as sensitive as photographic paper is not as light sensitive as film. Anyway we’re only talking about film here.

So this morning as I was going trough the latests post on feelingnegative they linked to an excellent film development tuturial on PhotoTuts+. The tutorial talks about Kodak TMax film but the process is pretty much the same for any black and white film. I have a couple of short notes/tips on the tutorial, but go read it first.

  1. You don’t need a completely blacked out room, get your self a Changing Bag. Paterson makes these and it’s the one I use.
  2. Buy a Paterson Universal development tank and buy a new one. Second hand tanks can leak or can be incomplete without you knowing until you have developer all over your hands and ruined negatives.
  3. Start out with plastique reels they’re easier for beginners. The Paterson Universal is a plastique reel system and can handle 135 and 120 film without a problem.
  4. The Massive Dev Chart is your friend! It’s a database with film and developer combination and tells you the times and temperature need to develop (and a lot more)
  5. If you have an iPhone or iPod Touch install the Massive Dev Chart app! Aside from telling you how to develop your film with a specific developer it also provides you with a timmer that guides you through the process of developing, stop and fix. It even tells you when to agitate. It’s a breeze with this little helper. They also provide the app for other mobile platforms but the iPhone version is by far the best.
  6. Your stop chemicals can be replaced with water with a little vinegar!
  7. You can skip the HypoClear I never user it. But wash properly!
  8. Never buy photo flow, it’s really bad for the environment!! You can replace it by using a little dish washer fluid. Also just using a squeegee also solves the issue. There you go saved you 3 bottles of chemicals with the last 3 points.
  9. To close some general info on shooting black and white film. The wonderful thing about most black and white film is that it’s really hard to screw up! Black and white film has a very high dynamic range. Just meeter light in the shadows and you’ll be fine.

This is pretty much it! At first glance it might look like a lot but it’s really not such an unforgiving process as it migh seem. I’ve made loads of mistakes including developing in an incomplete, liquid and light leaking tank and guess what, I still got good exposures out of it. I even once forgot the stop bath all together and still the negatives were fine.

Don’t be afraid of screw-ups! And just have fun! And I can guarantee that you end up making better photographs also when using your digital camera. I would love to hear about questions, suggestions and experience in the comments below.

 
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Posted by on May 17, 2010 in Photography

 

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Tip for Nikon strobists

I have a small tip for Nikon flash users. Most of the time, if not all the time, when I use my flashes (sb800 and sb600)  they are always of camera. Often it will happen that I balance them in some form or another with available light. Now it should be noted that I always have my camera and flashes set on Manual, but this tip should also be use full if your using TTL. Usually when I’m getting my exposure right I will take a couple of shots with ambient only. When I’m happy with everything I start firing away until I feel the need to change something and then the process starts all over again.

The thing I never really liked is the fact that disabling the flash disrupts my workflow. I prefer much more to just press and hold a button and take the shot and release the button to take me back to flash, AE-L hold style. It so happens that you can! Yesterday I was browsing the menu of my D300 (I’m sure you can at least do this with a D90 D200 and D700 as well) and found that you can reprogram the (for me useless) aperture preview button to do it for you. This has made me so happy I felt the need to share it and make those users that are as anal as I am just as happy. So here’s how to do it:

Press MENU –> Go to the Custom Settings Menu (the small pencil) –> Choose “f Controls” –> Choose “f5 Assign Preview Button” –> Go to the “Preview Button Press” option –> Select Flash off  –> And, very important, press the OK button.

And that’s it! Try it out, you don’t even have to take your camera of you face to do a quick ambient exposure!

 
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Posted by on April 15, 2009 in Photography

 

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